Road Trip to Nowhere In Particular: Day 3

Yeehaw! Georgia to South Carolina. this was a quick, easy drive. With the exception of a slight navigational hiccup in the form of Google directing me onto a road that has been closed for nearly a year to the day. Come on, Big G, I rely on you for many things and always sing your praises, don't make me look bad here. So after correcting our route, and adjusting my attitude with the help of a Waffle House pecan waffle (it is Georgia after all), we were off and running on the state road instead of boring old I-95. As we got closer to Charleston, into a town I can't remember the name of, we started coming across antique stores. And I don't mean the junk shops that pass for antiques back home, I mean ANTIQUES. Huge, old, solid wooden furniture from the ancient homes that are all throughout the area from plantation days. At a place called Livingston's we saw a wardrobe big enough for both of us to fit inside, with the doors shut. If it weren't priced at $29,500 I might have tried, there's probably a talking lion in there somewhere.

From there, onward to Charleston. What a gorgeous scene as you come across the bridge into the city center. And boy, do people here like to jog. And then there's the Citadel cadets, who just have to. Once again, the parking gods must love me this week. First street I try I find a metered space with a two hour limit and an hour and fifty five minutes until the meters aren't enforced. This is another walking friendly town, with the exception of their ancient sidewalks being a bit narrow, when they exist. After a cursory stroll of the city street market and the obligatory tourist traps (same ones we have seen in every town so far) we happened across a magical word painted on the side of a run down old building. Tavern. Jackpot. And not just any tavern, the one all the local waiters and bartenders go to after work. It was the bastard child of Tiny Tap and The Emerald, with the beer selection of House of Beer. Happy times. Our bartender was awesome. Polite and helpful, he gave us more tips than I could remember. Thankfully one or two of the restaurants he recommended I had already spotted and remembered where they were.

From the dark, cozy confines of Big John's, I let Joli and Hotwire work their magic again. She found a place just a few blocks off and we decided she would walk there and check in while I retrieved the car. Good thing we did, you would NEVER find this place from the street. Fulton Place Inn, sounded nice enough. Turns out Fulton place is more of an alley. After missing it at least three times on the confusing, unmarked one way streets, I spotted her on the corner guiding me in on the phone. What a nice place. It's an ancient three story inn with long, wide halls, high ceilings, and plenty of old south charm. And a bargain too, with room service breakfast included and complimentary sherry in the lobby.

After resting and changing, we headed out for dinner. The first two highly recommended dinner places we tried were full up for the night, without reservations. So I called ahead to the place I recalled wonderful smells coming from on our afternoon walk, Fig. Apparently, the head chef there has been on Iron Chef and beat the Iron Chef on taste. And I believe it. They had a table for us, and boy, was I glad they did. Small and beautiful, with an eclectic menu, this place is a winner. I had what was easily in the top three meals I have eaten in my life. Starting with a dram of Dubonnet and an absolutely wonderful beef tartars. Yum yum, I do so enjoy raw meat. Entree was grilled swordfish on an English and white pea ragout. This was hands down the best piece of fish I have ever eaten, EVER. If you are in Charleston, this place is a must. Though we intended to forego dessert and find a place called Speakeasy (you actually have to ask at a doorway and get let in a locked door) for a nightcap, we gave in. Again, glad we did. We opted for the chocolate pudding over burnt caramel topped with hazelnut, olive oil and sea salt. Wow. I mean, WOW! Pure delight.

From there we headed off on a hunt for this secret door. A few blocks later though, the food buzz kicked in and we said the he'll with it and retired for the evening for Canadian Club and a cigar in the courtyard. To tell the truth, the meal was so good, the smoke wasn't even that enjoyable and was snuffed only halfway finished. Our room was quiet and bed comfortable. And being on the third floor, we could enjoy having the window open instead of air conditioning. I slept like a dead man and woke this morning finally feeling totally relaxed, the vacation vibe has finally set in.

Today is a bit longer trek to Asheville, but takes us through beautiful mountain country. Weather has stayed warmer than I expected, I'm actually wishing I brought more shorts. I can hardly wait to get to the Biltmore Estate, if you've never been, you should. Hopefully Big John's will be open by the time we go, so I can pop in and thank Chris for steering us to that wonderful dinner last night.

So far I have taken but few pictures, which is unusual for me. As is writing this much, but I am actually rather enjoying it. Thanks for reading and look for another entry tomorrow. We will be home all too soon.